![]() The radius chine will have a 2' diameter throughout, hand laid up, with the rest of the boat made by resin infusion on a flat table. The construction method will be modified Kelsall, with a radius chine design. I had a bad experience in 1971 sailing from Hawaii to Seattle, and decided to learn yacht design in self-defense. I am designing my own boat, as I have been an amateur designer since the days of planimeters, splines, and French curves. Brand New No core charge 24 Volt 100 Amps Outstanding performance. I'd go with manual, but this is a 65' boat we are talking about, and it will operate in coral waters, where a rope-chain rode isn't a practical option.Īnd, if it so common to do this, why can't I find one lousy wiring diagram for the idea? Delco 33si series alternator, common on so many applications. Just price the cables to run a big electric anchor windlass with 12 volts versus 24 volts, and you will see my point. I would make the whole boat 24 volt, if only the engines came with a 24 volt option.Īnd, I am having no trouble finding 24volt gear, except for 2 or 3 low draw electronic items, which I will power with a DC to DC converter, which costs about $85.Īs far as I am concerned, 12 volt systems are an obsolete relic of the days when boats had much, much less electrical gear. I consider this the simplest approach, actually. The engines use 12 volts to run, and won't run without it. These engines have onboard computers and electronic injection. I know it had some 12 volt circits for all the coach lights and ignition. the bus chassis had a 24 volt battery (2 12volts in series) for starting the 525hp engine and two alternators. This would be beter manageable in a charger based system, where you could throttle.24 volts are better than 12 volts because.Ģ4 volt is better than 12 volts, because the wiring is cheaper and you don't spend as much money heating wires. I have worked on several bus / Motorhome combo's with 24 volt start systems and 12 volt house batterys. 500W makes no sense it seems to me, as this gets below the multiplus threshold). ![]() In the this setup it seems the throttling of the 1000W could only be done, by cutting ACin (4.3 A being the minimum limit) on the multiplus or switching the inverter on-off (limit it to e.g. UPDATE: A potential weak point (to be checked in real life) could be the alternator overheating when having to deliver the 1000W with the engine idle => low rpm => low cooling => it gets too hot and brakes. Looking forward to your views, spend many hours reading, but only experience makes a master, and that I lack. ![]() I would put a CerboGX to tie stuff together, and it seems to me I could use that to eventually add a temperature sensor on the alternator which the GX could use to kill the inverter, e.g. 24 volts is way to high, the battery should be 12 volts, the alternator should put out 13 volts up to 15. I don't risk to make a loop as when the engine runs, the charger will detect high voltage on the starter side, and quit charging. When connecting to a landline (or other 230V source), I disconnect the inverter and replace it with the landline, the UPS function makes this transparent on the ACout side.Įventually I can add a low power 230V 24V charger to AC out, and use that to maintain the truck starter batteries during longer stops (e.g. Or do you see a benefit of using a Phoenixįringe benefit, I can boost the AC out 2400W of the multiplus to 3400W (or about) by running the engine, and while I drive my base equipment runs on the alternator, only using the mutiplus/battery/solar for powerassist, and for charging my living batteries with whatever is spare of the 1000W. As the inverter can be rather simple, the 24 1000W (or let's say 1500W to be safe), can be a more plain (cheaper) brand as Victron. If I put a Cyrix 230A between alternator/starter battery & the inverter which I can program a bit, I should be able to make sure the invertor only kicks in when the engine is running. In order not to stretch my alternator, and leave my truck stater batteries alone, I need a multiplus where I can set a very low limit on the ACin, only the 48/3000 model with limit minimum of 4.3 A stays in the 1000W ballpark (5000 is 6A). Now I could run 24-48 DCDC convertors, but to get to 25A on 48V takes 3.īut I could also run a 24V inverter and use it to convert my 50A spare of 80A 24V alternator in a 1000W 230V generator, which I connect to the ACin of the multiplus. I would prefer to run my "ESS" on 48V as it makes technically and financially most sense. The engine of my truck exists with 24V 35/55/80A alternators, so I assume that on the 80A model I could use about 50A (so roughly 1000W) without impacting the core of the truck. Still designing, came onto an approach which seems to me almost to good to be true (in my case), so I have the suspicion I make a mistake.
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